Phone: +919820008424
Address: 10, Pali Mala Road, Adarsh Nagar, Pali Hill, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra India
Time: 12 Noon – 3 PM, 7 PM – 12 Midnight
Meals for two: Rs. 4,500
Cuisines: Thai
Facilities: Serves Alcohol, Table booking recommended
To you. Yes! It is only to you dear reader that I owe responsibility. To offer you an accurate, objective and systematic assessment of each restaurant experience. Like of this new Thai restaurant in Pali Hill. Over the past 30 years, I’ve been fine-tuning my restaurant critiquing methods. We were taught some in my journalism course, but I learnt more from international food critics by accompanying them on their restaurant reviews, and so set up some rules for myself. Each time, my assistant books in a fake name. To check consistency, I may dine a few times. I always pay my bill. I request my guests to go ahead and order the food (it also helps judge the service). And many a times, I invite dining companions who are experts in the cuisine. Like today, Cholada Siddhivarn, director of Thai Tourism, Mumbai and Soraya Homchuen, who overseas Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Two dynamic, talented Thai ladies for whom “Thai food is heaven” who not only have intricate knowledge of Thai food but cook it, too. My third guest, the dapper Amish Chinai, goes a step further, and in his unique “Fruitique” sells Thai fruits (amongst other best quality imported local fruits vegetables and organic products).
We have a great afternoon. And post-lunch, check out Fruitique (which is close by). Multi-talented Amish not only consults with ad agencies but is also chef of Chinai’s Kitchen (marinated meats and seafood). Cholada, Soraya and I buy many a products and fresh juice and happily make a note Fruitique’s home delivery service, too. Our review of Pali Thai follows.
Pali Thai, Pali Hill, Bandra West, Mumbai: Decor
Enter through Pali Bhavan, walk through a dimly lit narrow curtained archway and enter a totally different world. Sexily glamorous space. Mood lighting, pendant lamps (inspired by ngob, Thai farmers’ palm leaf and bamboo hats), indoor palm and plantain trees, masterful orchestration of vibrant colour and design by the brilliant Ashiesh Shah in this intimate 40-seater space charms. There is a mezzanine floor, too. But we choose to sit on the ground floor by the well-stocked bar.
Pali Thai, Pali Hill, Bandra West, Mumbai: Food
What a flying start it is with the ‘Miang Kham’ (one-bite leaf wrap; gleaming green betel leaves — chaphlu or wild betel) studded with toasted coconut, roasted peanuts, chopped onion, green lime, and spiked with bird eye chili. One bite of Miang Kham and pleasurable intense, five flavors, sweet and fiery notes and textures seduce. Vibrant, tangy sweet raw Papaya Salad and Pomelo Salad hits the sweet spot. Innovative cocktails and Thai young green coconut are on offer, too.
Pali Thai, Pali Hill, Bandra West, Mumbai: Minus Points
After that promising flying start our meal begins to nosedive. Our experts concur that both the red and green curries are woefully low on flavor, fragrance and high on creaminess and sweetness. Cubes of mango in the salad are flavor comatose, The Chilean sea bass is not only ruined by being served up in small chunks but is also overcooked and smothered in an overpowering sweet chilli sauce. More sour and sweet and less lemongrass in the Tom Yum soup disappoints. And the Pad Thai is not authentic. Over sweet Mango Sticky Rice. High price points.
Pali Thai, Pali Hill, Bandra West, Mumbai: My Point
We love Pali Village Cafe and Pali Bhawan and so, when Pali Thai opens our expectations run high. Superb contemporary glamorous ambiance evokes Thailand yet exudes world class chic. Sadly, most of the food does not compliment it… High price points (Eg. Curries Rs. 900 to Rs. 1,000 / Mango Sticky Rice Rs. 775, Salads Rs. 650 – Rs. 800). Calibration of flavors in many a dish and authenticity lacking. A pity!