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Address: Ground Floor – 11, Oasis City, Kamala Mills – Entrance #2, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400013
Time: 12 – 4 PM, 6:30 PM – 1:30 AM
Meals for two: Rs. 2,400
Cuisines: European, Pizza, Sushi, Charcoal Grill, Burger
Facilities: Wheelchair Accessible, Full Bar Available, Valet Parking Available, Smoking Area, Nightlife
Quirky with quality… these are some of the ways to try and decode super achiever Zorawar Kalra’s ‘Kode’. These words also begin to describe my mercurially brilliant guest today. Jaideep Mehrotra is internationally celebrated for being at the forefront of innovation in his art. His recent mixed media canvasses (the result of years of research) are highly reflective masterpieces that tantalize viewers with an uncanny luminosity. He is not only a discerning gourmet but also an experimental cook and globe trots with fellow food connoisseur, his lovely wife, Seema. And since Kode appeals to all generations, it is fitting to have the palate opinion of the vivacious, well-travelled young siblings Mallika (currently studying in New York) and Anushka, a US graduate who is now working in a prestigious film production company. Our unanimously happy review follows…
Kode, Lower Parel, Mumbai: DECOR
Sexily glamorous ménage à trois of theatrically lit, rough hewn granite walls, gleaming steel and glass in this sprawling room. An island bar and an energetic vibe is brilliantly orchestrated by a Japanese designer.
Kode, Lower Parel, Mumbai: FOOD
Having dissolved geographic boundaries Kode bops around continents, distilling the most popular dishes and then giving them a modern spin. Be it Spanish churros that are transformed into savory ones and married to goat’s cheese and honey mousse or Olives, which implode with flavor.
Pillowy snowy Burrata, fresh and perfectly sliced sashimi, sushi rolled and served in a theatrical fishing sail boat et al. Chef Saurabh Udinia bakes Mumbai’s best light as air, baked camembert souffle enriched with velvety béchamel (brilliantly priced at Rs. 485).
The toppings as well as the pie of the pizza satisfy.There is ramen, robata and more. Then of course, their `Liquid Chef’ concept is all about their curated cocktail tasting menu. Not to forget the largest selections of whiskey in India.Baked Alaska flambéed on the table seduces with just the right amount of sweetness and texture.
Kode, Lower Parel, Mumbai: MINUS POINTS
Noisy, very noisy when packed. Nitrogen-frozen roses. A cocktail that looks like pears soap (not the most appetizing thing to be eating)… some of the drama tips into gimmickry. Stodgy corn curd. Ditto for the Pide with Manchego Cheese and the Quesadilla. Lackluster Scotch Eggs, which look better than they taste.
Kode, Lower Parel, Mumbai: MY POINT
These forced labels don’t even begin to describe the sheer joy of flavor, texture of surprise of the global dishes served here. It’s like a colourful Russian circus of bold flavors and textures on our palate. Kode has the largest collection of whisky and puts as much importance on the bar as the kitchen but what I salute is that it is audacious, adventurous and (most importantly) enjoyable. And some of these are the traits too of Zorawar’s other restaurants, Masala Library, Farzi Cafe, Pa Pa Ya and now, Kode. As for Kode, please stay away if you’re looking for peace and quiet and a predictable meal. In this theatrical fun ‘Freestyle bar and kitchen’, it’s the confident gastronomic swagger that cracks the Kode.
