Kakori House, Lower Parel, Mumbai North Indian Restaurant

Kakori House Revisited [Awadhi / Indian]

Hamara salaam hai! Here’s celebrating two nationally and internationally acclaimed legends in their own fields. My guest, the exuberant and brilliant Anuradha Pal the world’s first female professional tabla maestro, showered with countless prestigious awards, (including an award conferred by the President of India) makes time in between her international tabla concerts to lunch with me. We do so at my forever favourite, moderately priced Qureshi’s Kakori House. Hailing from a six generation lineage of culinary geniuses, Ishtiaque Qureshi, son of the legendary Padmashree Mohammed Imtiaz Qureshi has been winning awards nationally and internationally, too.

It was almost 20 years ago that I first feasted on Kakori House’s kababs and biryanis at Karishma Kapoor’s wedding lunch. Since then its been an ongoing Kakori House love affair.

And with Anuradha Pal, it has been an ongoing fangirl affair. She has wowed 30 countries with over 5,000 concerts with her live-wire rhythmic innovations and collaborates with Indian and international masters. To spend time with her and that, too, over a Kakori House lunch is a treat to beat all treats.

OPEN FOR DINE IN

Wedged into the traffic choked Mahim main road. Kakori House is a tiny boxed in, no frills, 15 seater eatery. It has an artwork depicting the history of Kakori, the village, the 1917 revolution and the origin of the Kakori kabab. Parking impossible here.

KABABS, BIRYANIS AND MORE

The recipes and experience of six generation of chefs, butchers distil into the dishes here.

Biryani buffs this is your Mecca, long grained, fragrant, lovingly and slowly made on dum. Each one a masterpiece. Dum Gosht Lucknow Biryani, Dum Mutton Noormahal and Chicken Masala Biryani top our list. As does the Bombay Bohri Masala Biryani (the most in demand). Advance order needed for the Jackfruit Dum Gosth Motia and Khichda. Melt in the mouth soft Galouti Kebab and Murgh Gol Mirch Tikka are a must-try. Depth of flavour in the must-try Nihari Gosht. Haleem lovers rejoice! You can ask for this rare-on-restaurant menus here. Even the usuals — the Tandoori Chicken, Malai Kebab, and Kalimirch Kebab are equally good.

Don’t forget to ask for Raan Sikandari with meat falling off the bone. If you have space, end with the creamy dreamy Shahi Tukra.

VEGETARIAN IN KAKORI HOUSE?

Surprise of surpises… in this non-vegetarian haven, almost 40% dishes are vegetarian (Veg Shammi, Galoti, Paneer Tikka, Saundhe Aloo and more), which is just as well because Anuradha is vegetarian.

Here’s her review in her own words, “Playing tabla and savoring food are immersive and exhilarating experiences. When I present an Alaapi Peshkar in my tabla jugalbandi, I unravel the mysterious elements of the taal to unfold themselves, much like the aroma and flavours of this delectable Veg Biryani. Akin to these soft and spicy Veg Kababs, I enjoy playing Laggis with the lilting thumris and pulsating dancer moves of Lucknow.”

TRIED, TESTED, TASTED

Moderately priced fare does jugalbandi with the highest quality. Past two decades I’ve dined in all the four branches and ordered in regularly. Sachin Tendulkar, Sushmita Sen et al are regulars. Having learnt cooking at age seven from his father, Padmashree Mohammed Imtiaz Qureshi, cooking for Ishtiaque is a magnificent obsession. And every detail is immaculate. Slow and gentle ‘dum’ cooking coaxes complex aromas and fragrances. There is refinement of Awadhi Nawabi cooking and there is robustness of Bombay Bohri Biryani. Lahori Mirch from Kashipur, Rose and attar from Kannauj, home made potli masala, jadi butis, peepli, spices added to aid digestion. Overnight simmering over coal, dum cooking. . . magnificent attention to detail and consistency are the hall marks of this moderately priced and high quality masterpieces here.

Note: Don’t bother to go to the Mahim Kakori House (the Metro work outside makes it impossible to park) Order in / takeaway from the branches that span the city.

The Kakori Kabab:

Here it is. A UNESCO recognised kabab, the Kakori Kabab. Its been declared the world’s softest kabab. For sure, it is both, an art and a science to marinate, hold at uniform temperatures, hand pound and then mould kababs onto a skewer and grill. Gently coaxing the kabab off the skewer is definitely an act of love. And eating that velvety Kakori Kebab is heaven.

Where To Go:

• Kakori House Bandra
  Ground floor, Nityanand Nagar, K.0 Mang, Bandra Reclemation, Bandra (W) – 400050
• Kakori House Mahim
  Shop no: 10, A Shiv Sagan Co-Op Society, Opposite Paradise Cinema, L.J. Road, Mahim – 400016
• Kakori House Lower Parel
  Shop no-10, Shreeniwas Tower, Shankar Rao Narapath, Opposite Laxmi Industrial Estate, Delisle Roa, Lower Panel – 400013
• Kakori House Sakinaka
  Shop – 1, Ground Floor, Gala no. 28, Situated at Bernard Market, Link Road, Sakinaka – 400072

Time: 11:00 AM – 11:00 PM
Mobile number: 9320190269
Landline: 8655319211- 8655329211

Meal for 2: Rs. 1,200