Address: 4, Gangotri CHS, 5th Road, Khar, Mumbai, Maharashtra India
Time: 11:30 AM to 4 PM, 7 PM to 12 Midnight
Meals for two: Rs. 1,000
Cuisines: Sindhi
Facilities: No Alcohol Available, Wallet Accepted, Vegan Options
So what if it seriously small? It was a delight to dine in Mumbai’s first dedicated Sindhi cuisine restaurant. And magnifying my joy was the fact that, not only were my guests well-informed foodies who are Sindhis, have grown up on Sindhi food, but also gave me a full lesson on the cuisine.
Karachi-born shipping advisor, dapper Bansi Jaising’s mother’s fabulous Sindhi Kadhi, Tuk, Dal Pakwan are still in his taste bud memory. Harish Malani, who is in knowledge management, gave me a magnificent overview of the healthy though rich Sindhi food, which originated on the banks of the Indus (Sindhu) river. And the difference between the lighter, tomato-based Sindhi Kadhi from the North and the besan-based one from the South. I enjoyed dining with them; it was a fun, delicious learning experience, too.
Juss by Sindhful, Khar, Mumbai: DECOR
Tucked into a Khar lane, it’s a small, casual, no-frills, and simply done up 28-seater with a small mezzanine level, too.
Juss by Sindhful, Khar, Mumbai: FOOD
Though only vegetarian food is on the menu, on request they get you non-vegetarian dishes from their catering unit across the street. Lustily spiced Onion-based Sindhi Mutton, tasty Mutton Chops, the wheat ‘roti’ Koki with Boondi Raita are must-trys. Flavorsome Raswalle Aloo with Puri and Bhee (Lotus stem) tikka, too. Ask for the mustard-based Sindhi achar, delicious spinach-based Sai Bhaji with the perfect spike of dill served with Bhuga Rice and Papad. Their tomato-based Sindhi Kadhi was a hit with my guests, though I prefer the besan based one from the South. Delicious Kheema, soft, spongy and oozing sweetness Dyammu (Gulab Jamun) and the most delicious Sev Barfi.
Juss by Sindhful, Khar, Mumbai: MINUS POINTS
The three staples Palla fish, Vadi and Offal were not on the menu. Tuk was not as crisp and double fried as it should be. The mango pickle with the Dal Pakwan was not authentic; stodgy China Grass and heavy-handed spicing in some of the dishes. No alcohol.
Juss by Sindhful, Khar, Mumbai: MY POINT
I love Sindhi food, not only for its unique bold flavors but also its focus on textural contrasts and fried foods. I was introduced to it by my dearest friend, producer, director, the late Gul Anand, a well-travelled Sindhi gourmet and consummate cook. So, when I apply the taste references of his cooking, Juss by Sindhful’s food certainly does well, with fine-tuning. However, it is for sure a wonderful effort by mother son duo of Kanchan and Sannat Ahuja. As Bansi Jaising points out, “We are delighted to eat here, we need more such Sindhi restaurants.” It serves up simple, honest fare… Dadho Sutho!