ITP Indian Travel Places: Food, Travel, Tourism Business Events and Trade Shows
Address: Not Available, Worli, Mumbai
Time: 10:30 AM to 10 PM
Meals for two: Rs. 600
Cuisines: Mughlai
Facilities: Breakfast, Delivery Only
WWW: thebohrikitchen.com (orders@thebohrikitchen.com)
I’m stumped. Call it thaali, call it thaal, but how do I define this finger-licking (literally, too) shortcut to bliss? Guilt-free non-stop eating? Taste of culture? Yes, all this and more. Over the years, I’ve been on a thaali-high – be it at the South Indian (A Rama Nayak’s Udipi or Mani Bhawan) or the Gujarati (Shri Thaker Bhojnalay). Till now, it’s been only about vegetarian thaalis (except for a fly by night wannabe non-veg Bohri thaal restaurant in Grant Road). And then along comes the gourmet of all gourmets, the high-octane award-winning charismatic actor, who has four generations of film and gourmet genes. Rishi Kapoor‘s passion and gourmet gusto is infectious. In spite of his hectic schedule, he drove all the way to taste Gordon Ramsay’s cooking (when I was shooting with Gordon for Channel 4). Over the years, the charmer has guided me to his favorite foodie haunts. Once again, this knight on a white charger (er… SUV) fetches me and drives me to his tried, tested and tasted Bohri thaal restaurant (!). He does not reveal the name or whereabouts. “It’s all part of the experience and mystique. And I have already booked,” he insists.
The dress code: expandable clothes for a marathon meal. I obediently wear my running shoes and shorts. I’m intrigued. And excited.Three hours later, his famous Kapoor smile lights up the room. I insist on paying Rs. 3,000 for both of us. And I can’t stop smiling. Why do I feel like snoozing?
Bohri Kitchen, Worli, Mumbai: DECOR. IS IT A RESTAURANT?
We drive into a leafy Colaba lane. Walk up two flights of stairs and find ourselves in a simply done up big room with one thaal. We’re in The Bohri Kitchen. I Google to find it listed as a restaurant on many restaurant sites. It’s a “by booking only” restaurant with “an undisclosed location”. The only other such restaurant I’ve dined in was the 1,000 USD per head Ultraviolet in Shanghai. Of course the TBK experience is very different. It’s a family saga. The cook is the mom (Nafisa), the head of operations is the father (Turab) and the CEO (Chief Eating Officer) is the son, Munaf Kapadia. And they all come with the thaal because, for sure, the thaal is the star.
Bohri Kitchen, Worli, Mumbai: FOOD
Here’s what you’re served: a seven or eight-course Dawoodi Bohra meal with a fascinating tutorial commentary on what, why and how to eat it. Opt to sit on the floor or table (six to eight people eat out of one large thaal). Flag off with the tradition of a pinch of salt from the namak dani (natural anti-bacterial,palate cleanser and taste bud activator). I taste both the non-vegetarian and vegetarian thaal (Rs. 1,500 each). Ooh, I love the rule of biting the corner of the smoked Mutton Kheema Patti Samosas, squeezing nimbu juice and smearing it with fresh pudina chutney and taking another bite (the combined acidity magnifies the ghungaar (smoky) flavour). The alternating courses – “Kharaas Meethas” – (savoury sweet) has us in seventh heaven. After the samosas and cutlets, it’s the kissed with sweetness, flaky pastry plump with velevetty malai. Rich succulent, slow cooked Raan (marinated in red masala for two days), contrasts with the wholesome jaggery infused broken wheat and Chana Bateta Thulli. Soul warming simple smoked Daal Chawal Palida.
DCP. Smoked Tur Daal with Baingan Bharta and Papad. Finale of bursting with mango hand churned Saancha Ice Cream. Magai Jodi paan. Of course.
Bohri Kitchen, Worli, Mumbai: MINUS POINTS
Two flights of stairs. No lift. Only advance booking.
NSKP (no serial killer) policy of having to introduce yourself can be a pain.And booking depends on the number of people (see box). Overload of masala on Chicken Angara, fancy sounding but ordinary Naariyal Kebabs, oversweet Kesar Sherbet.
Bohri Kitchen, Worli, Mumbai: MY POINT
It’s an experience. The undisclosed location in Colaba adds to the mystique. As do the fascinating ‘how-tos and whys’ of eating explained by the articulate young Munaf Kapadia. Meats cooked to perfect temperatures and textures and have a dreamy richness. Equally delightful veg thaal, too. I cannot vouch for the consistency, simply because it is a home-grown venture and because I have not been able to go back to recheck it unannounced (as I always do).
Sure! Rishi Kapoor has tried it several times and it has got glowing reviews too. It sure was a seven gun salute of a superstar thaal. Shukriya Rishi Kapoor, superstar actor and superstar gourmet.
