Address: Minoo Manor Building 7, Captain Prakash Pethe Marg, Badhwar Park, Apollo Bandar, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai, Maharashtra India
Time: 12 Noon to 1:30 AM
Meals for two: Rs. 3,000
Cuisines: Egyptian, Turkish, Lebanese, Moroccan, Greek
Facilities: Smoking Area, Free Wifi
Marhaba! Welcome Mumbai’s newest restaurant, Bayroute. Bye bye Moshe’s; we’re sad you closed your restaurant and sailed off to Alibaug to set up your cooking school. At the very same Moshe’s Cuffe Parade location, Bayroute has opened. And by a coincidence, too, I’m writing this review from Dubai where I’ve feasted on some of the finest Middle Eastern fare. And it was thanks to the superstar Soonawala doctor family that I not only got to know about Bayroute but also lunched there. For over four decades that I’ve known them, I’ve been in admiration of their competence, joie de vivre and discerning palates. The dashing, award winning 89-year young, Padma Shri Dr RP Soonawala has devoted his medical life to empowerment of w omen ’s reproductive health and welfare. As has his equally dashing son, Dr Feroze Soonawala (who is growing his hair to donate it for wigs for cancer survivors). He joined us much later after completing his surgeries. I’ve also been an admirer and client of Roshni’s superb sushi (which she used to make at a time when it was not available in Mumbai). This educationist is also a gourmet and brilliant cook. It’s always fun to catch up with this trio but to do so over a delicious, hearty meal made it even better.
Bayroute, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai: Decor
Walk into this charming Cuffe Parade bungalow and be blown away by the hot air balloon lamps, translucent curtains and windows letting in daylight.
Bayroute, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai: Food
Traditional fare from five countries (Lebanon, Greece, Egypt, Morocco and Turkey) as well as some original creations. The most flamboyant of these originals was the ‘Gold Souk’ dessert, which more than lived up to its name. Bursts, splashes, crunches, squishes — be it of Rose Vermicelli, Mango Chilli Sorbet, Saffron Caviar & Pearls or Ruby Chocolate, Lotus Flower Plated With 24K Edible Gold (of course). Their other signature ‘Hummus Bayroute’ delighted with its Greek Yogurt Labneh Swirl, sprinkled with sesame and Sumac Za’atar. Succulent Lamb Shawarma sparkled with garlic sauce and spicy Skhug Yemeni hot sauce. It’s flatbread mecca… be it the Turkish canoe shaped flatbread Pide or the Lebanese Manakeesh flatbread. Ask for the boldly flavored Machboos, Middle Eastern-spiced rice fragrant with lamb jus topped with pistachio. End with Lotus Drama, Cheesecake with Lotus Biscuit.
Bayroute, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai: Minus Points
Alas! My most favorite Foul Medames of Fava Beans and Chickpeas lacked punch. The mishmash of rice, pasta and lentils in the Egyptian Koshari was avoidable. Ditto for the mushy-slushy Beetroot Flavored Hung Yogurt. Thick overcooked Tripoli Red snapper.
Bayroute, Cuffe Parade, Mumbai: My Point
Bayroute’s menu zigzags through Greece, Turkey, Egypt, Morocco and Lebanon (of course). Some of the Mediterranean comes into play, though the flavors, scents and seasonings of the Middle East dominate. Generous portions, juicy, flavorful meats, plenty for vegetarians. Bayroute has more hits than misses and if you’re a Levantine, Middle Eastern food fan, then take this route!