Banana Leaf, Lower Parel, Mumbai

Restaurant Name: Banana Leaf, Lower Parel, Mumbai
Phone: +918080891111, +918080841111
Address: Kamala Mills Compound, Ground Floor, Trade Tower, B Wing, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Maharashtra 400606 India
Time: 10:30 AM – 11:00 PM
Meals for two: Rs. 600
Cuisines: North Indian, South Indian, Street Food, Beverages, Desserts
Facilities: Breakfast, Home Delivery, Takeaway Available, Outdoor Seating, Table booking recommended, Desserts and Bakes, Indoor Seating

Banana Leaf, Lower Parel, Mumbai: About

It has been a lifelong love affair. Be it the comforting coddle of Thayir Sadam or the multitexural kiss of Vendakkai Moru Kachiyathu, the cuisines of South India continue to weave their mysterious magical love spell.

South India Summons

For the past two decades, I’ve been writing a weekly food column in Chennai, simply because it gives me a chance to regularly enjoy the shudhvegetarian Murugan idli, the wildly carnivorous Ponnusamy or the elegantly innovative Avartana and more. In Mumbai, Matunga is my Mecca. Be it Cafe Madras (even took Gordon Ramsay to lunch there) or A Rama Nayak Udipi, Arya Bhawan and ofcourse, Muthuswamy. In Versova, at Banana Leaf(thanks to the sweetest Sanjog Dhinsa) we were seduced by complex vegetarian South Indian flavours. That was seven years ago. A revisit to its newest branch was essential.

In-sainly Inspirational

I have lunch with the gourmet and oenophile, one of India’s biggest food and beverage investor, private equity player and real estate developer, Sameer Sain, who’s on an inspirational mission at Banana Leaf. He wants to ensure that our Indian chefs get the respect they deserve. His vision is also to change the clichéd global perception of Indian cuisine and this has resulted in curating his own unique Indian Revolver restaurant in Singapore named Omakase, counter seating et al. Sameer dines at the world’s finest and is even hosting the three Michelin Star Chef Massimo Bottura (who loves India) in Mumbai today.

Sameeer is equally passionate about no frills, regional Indian restaurants like Banana Leaf (Kamala Mills) for a quick lunch. Three dishes impress, the rest could do with improvement.

Andhra, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Kerala

Distilling so many Southern states onto our banana leaf thalis requires not just authentic recipes, masalas, cooking styles, but also consistency. To check that and all the dishes I missed out at the first meal, I go back. I do so with four foodies, unannounced again and pay my bill as always.

The tender yet firm okra, bathed in the traditional yogurt gravy (Vendakkai Moru Kachiyathu) tops the list. As do the flavour packed lentils Thakaly Pariappu. Rice lovers haven, be it the Thayir Sadam, the Manappuram Rice or Bissi Bele Bhat. Opt for the idli platter with six unique idlis — the crisp Podi Onion Uthappa, vibrant with milagai podi and the buttery Davangere Benne Dosa from Karnataka. Over 20 types of dosas and idlis available here. Flavor packed poriyal and dense coconuty gassi, too.

Minus Points

It’s one thing to have a huge crowd pleaser menu, but for an iconic South Indian restaurant (six successful branches spanning the city), it’s sad that the sambhar has sweet tones to it. Why are the Avial and the Stew so smothered in thick coconut milk? Stodgy appamone day and perfect the next day. Idiyapam and a few other dishes unavailable. Skip the desserts, opt for the filter kapi.

My Point:

Tucked into the business district of Kamala Mills, the fairly new Banana Leaf fills the much needed gap for a quick in-and-out tasty, pure-vegetarian lunch joint. It serves a huge net of a crowd pleaser menu like Kolkata’s jhal muri and Delhi’s chaat and Chole Bhature, and wobbles on some of these. It aces most ofits authentic regional dishes. South Indian food purist, please choose your dishes carefully and you will come away with your palate and wallet singing. Neat as a pin, pleasantly done up (with Kerala motifs), the 100 seater Banana Leaf is great for the office goer in the vicinity. Value for money and open through the day, too.