Babu Culture, Gariahat, Kolkata

Restaurant Name: Babu Culture, Gariahat, Kolkata
Phone: +919903300456 / +919748102212 / +918282833939
Address: 7/2B, Dover Lane, Ward 85, Gariahat, Kolkata 700016 West Bengal India
Time: 12:30 PM – 10:30 PM
Meals for two: Rs. 800
Cuisines: Bengali, Continental, Kebab, Fast Food, Desserts, Beverages
Facilities: Home Delivery, Takeaway Available, Indoor Seating, Desserts and Bakes,

Babu Culture Calcutta Cuisine

The Babus of Bengal lived a life of indulgence. This class of noveau riche under the patronage of British colonial Calcutta learnt to live with a dream of English liberalism, European fin de siècle decadence, influence of Mughal conservatism and indigenous revivalist trends. Babu Culture literally fostered the Bengal Renaissance, awakening of modern liberal thinking in 19th century Bengal, which gradually percolated to the rest of India.

Among many addictions, their contribution to Calcutta cuisine is invaluable. This festival, we are delighted to try the restaurant Babu Culture, delving into a menu specially curated by maverick chef Joymalya Banerjee, depicting the era. The location and décor in the heart of south Kolkata add to the colonial jest, with faux leather canary yellow and brown chesterfield deep buttoned chairs juxtaposed with babuana patachitra on the walls the plot becomes immensely ludicrous.

Food

It’s the menu that sucks us in no doubt. Chef Joy’s legendary knack of storytelling through ingredients and passion for research makes the journey unique, and this one is no different. We pick our way daintily through the exceptions and experiments to taste a flurry of dishes from Mash-ladar anarash bh-aja (220), Berry Sahib’s fish croquettes (260), Chandannagorer spicy crab cakes (395), Murgir potli bhapa kebab (275), Goldar-r chiney kebab (395) to Shoshar shukto ( 160), Komola-curry pata diye elahi aloor dom (155), Makha makhi makhan-e pabda (230), Mete chorchori (340) and Mutton kala bhuna (425).

Plus & Minus

Rare that we begin a Bengali meal with fruits, but the juicy stewed pineapple cuts were a great idea for the season, though the deep fry seemed OTT. But the golden crumb fried Berry Sahib’s croquettes, bless his soul, tiny pillows of flaked fish rolled with onion-garlic-cheese-green chilli perk warms our Bengali hearts. No idea why the crab cakes came from Chandannagar, the erstwhile French colony, minced and shaped liked tiny pan cakes they are literally pan grilled to smooth consistency; while the minced chicken with mustard-chilli mix in banana leaf money bags are steamed to perfection and make for an excellent choice. The stuffed and baked lobster in the traditional name of kebab comes with western technique cooking and indigenous ingredients including khoa kheer. For mains, the shoshar shukto or cucumber & bitters combination with five spiced tempering and the ubiquitous aloor dom or par boiled baby potatoes with fresh orange juice and curry leaves flavoring come as pleasant surprises teasing the mind, more than the palate. The butter sauce pan seared pabda in the ancient bagane masala or garden flavors of parsley, mint, coriander, celery and dill is a light rendition of the local delicacy knife fish, while the office-going babu’s favourite mutton liver curry or mete chorchori drives home a distinct note. Finally, the slow cooked mutton with whole spice bouquet garni and sweet fried onions with clever refinement of radhuni, brings refreshing novelty to the meal. For desserts there’s the translucent rendering of Daber payesh (120) or tender coconut water custard and Patisapta (120), the home style rice flour crepe’s stuffed with kheer and smeared with rabri.