ITP Indian Travel Places: Food, Travel, Tourism Business Events and Trade Shows
Address: Plot No. 604, Pinnacle House, P D Hinduja Junction, 15th Road, Khar, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050
Time: 12 – 2:30 PM, 7:30 – 11:30 PM
Meals for two: Rs. 2,500
Cuisines: Modern Indian
Facilities: Wheelchair Accessible, Full Bar Available, Valet Parking Available, Gluten Free Options, Brunch, Kid Friendly, Private Dining Area Available, Vegan Options, Serves Jain Food, Serves Cocktails, Disabled Friendly, Smoking Area, Wifi
Swaggering, shimmering sprawling duplex interiors by high-octane brand, Gauri Khan. No gas, charcoal only kitchen, helmed by Best lady chef Tourism award winner, Amninder Sandhu. That’s Khar’s brand new Arth. Is there any hope behind the hype? Helping me check it out are globally renowned guests. The affable genius Gaggan Anand’s Bangkok restaurant is crowned world’s 7th best and Asia’s best, but for him, India is numero uno as it taught him the art of cooking and culture of food diversity. The forever beautiful, ageless grandma of two, Dr Jamuna Pai, India’s leading aesthetic physician and pioneer of cosmetology, is just back from receiving an international award for outstanding performance in aesthetic procedures. A gourmet cook herself, she had dined here before and loved it. I invited the gourmet chef Maria Goretti Warsi (who’s now all set to intern with Gaggan). The lovely award-winning chef TV presenter, blogger and columnist shared her palate opinion, too.
Arth, Khar, Mumbai: DECOR
‘My Name Is Khan’ shimmers through in Gauri Khan’s classically elegant and glamorous interiors. Be it the Rex Diamond installation, dazzling mirrors, gold tones or the crystal chandeliers. Edgy kaleidoscopic lighting in the bar downstairs and the pendulum lights and chandeliers in the dining area set different moods.
Arth, Khar, Mumbai: FOOD
Gas-free kitchen, use of sigri charcoal and wood. Ingredients sourced from Ingredients sourced from Majuli, Shillong, Alleppey, Rishikesh et al. Interestingly, what emerges from this kitchen is plated in a modern innovative way. Be it the dreamily succulent Veg Seekh Kebab of Rhododendron flower beet and carrots, or the soft as silk Naga Wild Mushroom Gilawat. Even the non-veg Stoneground Chicken (plump with malai) Kebab, crunchy with raw mango chips delights. Ditto for the Kakori and Burrah Kebabs. Dal Makhani oozes with rich buttery flavours, smokey creamy charcoal bharta pleases. Superlative desserts… be it the delicately gift wrapped in rice paper sheets cashew-nut ghee and almond – Pootharekulu, the crisp golden Jalebi and ooh! That Nolengur Angoori Rabdi on phyllo nests. Exceptional Kulfi Falooda.
Arth, Khar, Mumbai: MINUS POINTS
Flatfooted mains lag. Interesting sounding and excitingly presented dishes (Deomali-bamboo smoked Mutton with Jasmine Rice wrapped in Alpinia leaf; Mama’s pressure cooker Mutton Curry with Koni Joha-short grained fragrant rice Naharakatia villages) turn out to be low on salt and overcooked. Though dramatically presented, the Idli and Avial don’t pass muster. Lacklustre Raan Biryani.
Arth, Khar, Mumbai: MY POINT
Glamour takes centre stage in this brand new Pan Indian Khar restaurant, designed by Gauri Khan. The food’s presentation appealingly complements the decor. It has the added plus points of being moderately-priced and of being cooked in a no gas kitchen. However, we all agree that while the starters and desserts shine, many of the mains are more show than go. Arth, from the highly successful Aallia group (Bastian, One Street Over), injects modern shimmering glamour into Indian fine-dining using traditional cooking methods, thereby carving a distinctive and important niche for itself. P.S. When Gaggan tasted his original molecular ‘Yoghurt Explosion’ (on the menu here), he went into the kitchen and shared his secrets with Chef Sandhu on adding zing to the dish. I applaud his positive sharing ways.
