Anglow, Khan Market, New Delhi

Restaurant Name: Anglow, Khan Market, New Delhi
Phone: 011 33107639
Address: 57, Khan Market, New Delhi, India
Time: 12 Noon – 1 AM
Meals for two: Rs. 2,000
Cuisines: European, North Indian
Facilities: Full Bar Available, Smoking Area, Nightlife, Indoor Seating, Table booking recommended

Anglow, Khan Market, New Delhi: Decor

You will not find a more convivial spot in Khan Market. Jacobean prints on the walls, slightly darkened interiors to appear like a century-old club during the British Raj, with wing chairs and footstools.

There is a slightly more sunlit spot on the second floor, but the bar is on the first floor and most of the crowd prefers to sit there. One thing about Anglow is that though it is billed as a bar, you really can visit at any time of the day and have an extremely pleasant hour or two, nibbling at the (mainly deep-fried) snacks with a cup of coffee or tea. For me, the best part was the staff: knowledgeable yet not intrusive or over-selling (sadly, at many restaurants, staff is briefed to ‘suggest’ certain dishes to guests and do so enthusiastically, regardless of individual guest preference). Also, the music – of the ’70s and ’80s at 5-7 pm – is played at a bearable decibel level that won’t force you to stop all conversation because you cannot make yourself heard.

Anglow, Khan Market, New Delhi: Food

While we were trying to decide which of the small plates to choose, our server recommended the assorted small plates (Rs. 945/1125 v/nv) which was a great idea. The non-vegetarian version included shami kebabs, Konkani fried chicken, fish cakes, deviled eggs and crunchy okra. While everything else was great, especially the okra that was fried in a rice batter to a crisp, the shami kebabs lacked any texture at all and could well have been made of soya for their lack of meatiness. The Konkani fried chicken had masala mixed with batter for extra crunch and the deviled eggs were coated in a mince before being – you guessed it – deep-fried. And the fish cakes were coated with panko crumbs and deep-fried, but were very similar to the fish cakes of the Raj era. Chilli fish and lime kedgeree (Rs. 645) was a perfect one pot dish for a single diner: flaked fish, short-grained rice and a light seasoning for a dryish khichdi. Mutton railway curry (Rs. 545) is a full meal for two, with a flavorful curry. If it is not spicy enough for desi taste buds, it is because it represents the juncture between British recipes and Indian khansamas.

Anglow, Khan Market, New Delhi: Plus & Minus

It is a rarity: a carefully conceptualized restaurant.