Kappa Chakka Kandhari, Koramangala 6th Block, Bangalore

Restaurant Name: Kappa Chakka Kandhari
Phone: +916364671010
Address: 438, 18th Main Road, Koramangala 6th Block, Bangalore, Bangalore 560008 Karnataka, India
Time: 12 Noon – 3:30pm, 7pm – 11pm
Meals for two: Rs. 1,500
Cuisines: Kerala
Facilities: Wheelchair Accessible, Valet Parking Available, Indoor Seating, Free Wifi, Kid Friendly, Wifi, Outdoor Seating, Entry Fee, Table booking for Groups, Available for Functions, Catering Available, Disabled Friendly

It has taken Kappa Chakka Kandhari longer than most restaurants to reopen after the lockdown. The hiatus has been well spent. This award-winning showcase for Kerala cuisine has replaced its a la carte menu of the past — I had thought it way too long — with a collection of set menus and one-pot meals. There is still no dearth of choice, with a line-up of house specials focused on fish and seafood also on offer.

I opted for the Naaduvaazhi (₹975), meant to be a kingly feast, spotting several of my favourite Kerala dishes on the curated list. A platter with three appetizers arrived. There was Koondal Roast, small squid rings done toddy shop-style, superbly tender and flavourful Irachi Fry and a simple, yet satisfying Chicken Cutlet. There was a beetroot chutney to dip this crumb-fried delight into. The other appetizer was Grilled Jumbo Prawn, in the shell, its marination also inspired by toddy shop food.

A tiny bowl of Pineapple Nendram Masala, sweet and sour, followed, serving as an excellent palate cleanser. I took a short break, sipping on cumininfused warm water, before tucking into the main courses. The first was spongy, sweet Vattayappam served with Duck Mappas. The gravy was delicious, coconut milk giving a silken finish to the roasted spice blend.

My next course was Idiappam and Prawn Thengapaal Curry, spectacular in its simplicity. I was sated by this time, but kept wanting another mouthful of idiappam dipped in the gravy. The third of the main courses in this set meal was Thattum Muttum. I asked for it to be substituted — not a good thing to do as a customer, I am aware — with the Kappa Vevichathu and Fish Curry. The tapioca was soft and fluffy, while the fish curry, hot, red and sharp from the kudampuli, was the perfect complement to the starch.

While I waited for my dessert of Unnakkai, I dwelled on how everyday ingredients kudampuli, tapioca, kandhari chillies, the freshest fish, coconut, home ground spices – sourced with care and cooked with knowledge and understanding can come together in a meal that can stand up to anything that can be described as fancy, exotic or gourmet.

The Unnakkai was brilliant — mashed nendran banana enfolding a sweetened coconut mixure and deep fried to be warm and delicious.