ITP Indian Travel Places: Food, Travel, Tourism Business Events and Trade Shows
Phone: 022 33716042
Address: Xico, 9A, Trade View Building, Kamala Mills Compound, Gate No. 4, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400013 India
Time: 12 Noon to 6 PM, 7 PM to 12 Midnight
Meals for two: Rs. 4,000
Cuisines: Mexican
Facilities: Full Bar Available, Table booking recommended, Restricted Entry, Valet Parking Available, Nightlife
How come? Why? Let’s just call it the “Mystery of the missing Mexican restaurants in Mumbai”. Considering the bold flavors and similarities between Indian and Mexican food, it’s hard to figure out why even the few Mexican restaurants, which did pop up, shut down. Casa Mexicana, El Mexicano in the President and The Oberoi, the stand-alone Sancho’s, too. Even now, there is only the dedicated Mexican Quattro Ristorante (pure-veg) and Sammy Sosa (Andheri). Not that I’m feeling deprived, because Mexican cuisine has never been my favorite, not even in Mexico City (when I’d gone for “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards”). So, when Xico opened in Parel, in the interest of fair judgement, I requested Mexican and Tex-Mex food buffs, the lovely, lively family Vasa to dine with us. Not only have Nina and PK Vasa been going to Mexico as far back as the 1970s but also their son Shamit Vasa is a doting dad and passionate home chef, who enjoys cooking for family and friends. We have a fab, fun, happy evening, and yes, they approve. I do too. Me? Yes, because even though my favorite Mexican Huitlacoche, Nopales and Poblano are not served here, Xico still passes the acid test of two of my best dishes: Guacamole and Tres Leches.
Xico, Lower Parel, Mumbai: Decor
Wedged into the restaurant zone, Xico bursts with a blast of colors. Aztec inspired tile work, no cliched motifs, contemporary, vibrant reds, greens, blues and yellows. Mood lifting!
Xico, Lower Parel, Mumbai: Food
Please take a look at the photograph. Deepak, one of the servers, is making Guacamole. He is deftly pounding and mixing imported Hass Avocados, white onions, Chile mix, red tomatoes, cilantro, limes and salt. He adjusts the spiciness according to diner request and whoa! Delicious velvety balance of flavors and texture implodes on our taste buds. Full marks. Always freshly made at the table, best guacamole in Mumbai.
Fast forward to my other Mexican favorite, Tres Leches. This crazily addictive dessert here is soft, silken, soaked vanilla cake, kissed with sweetened milk, cream, teased with strawberry compote and toasted almonds. Outstanding classic Pork Belly Tacos (Carnita) marinated overnight in coke, beer and condensed milk topped with Serrano salsa and cotija cheese. Ask for Chicken Milanesa, their succulent spin on a breaded Chicken Steak. Ask for the Tostadas, be it the marinated pulled pork, Cochinita or the black bean one with thin crispy tortillas made from home-made masa. Salsa verde sparkles the Chicken Enchilada. Bhavnagari chillis stuffed with five types of cheese (Chile Relleno) is tastily robust.
Plenty for vegetarians. Even the Mexican staple of refried beans is done in vegetable oil (instead of pork fat). Even my pet hate, the churros, are brilliantly golden deep-fried.
Xico, Lower Parel, Mumbai: Minus Points
Alas! Poblano, Huitlacoche and Nopales are not on the menu. The Mexican samosa lookalike, the lacklustre Empanada spiked with cumin disappoints. Ditto for the stodgy Mushroom Quesadilla with Chile Toreados.
The kingfish ceviche’s acidic chilli hot cure is overdone and the portion is too small. Jammy, stodgy Quinoa salad is the biggest disappointment.
Xico, Lower Parel, Mumbai: My Point
At last! Mexico in Mumbai. Authentic ingredients: Hass avocados, homemade ground Masa for tortillas, Mexican Cheese Cotija, Requeson, Queso Fresco, Mole sauce, too. I find out that chef Scott Linquist (with a track record of many a successful Mexican restaurants in the US and author of Mexican cookbooks) is the one orchestrating the symphony of assertive bold flavors and rich textures that makes us journey from Oaxaca and Puebla to Veracruz. A well-stocked bar, Mexican cocktails, et al helps fly through Mexico. If they’d add on Huitlacoche (expected in August), Nopales and Poblano, I’d go back regularly but until then, will surely be back for many a helping of freshly made Mumbai’s best guacamole. Bienvenido (welcome) Xico!
